Someday you will be as lucky as I was, and when that day comes, if that day ever comes, you will be staring in wonder at the magnificence of the floating Ghost City. When you stand at Kolunga Beach under the cover of nightfall, you will see lights everywhere, and by Jove I swear it looks like a major city skyline. Make no mistake though; the Ghost City is not a city city. The disappointing truth is that what you will be seeing are not neon signs, but pressure lamps.  Those are actually fishermen on Lake Victoria.

To witness this spectacle, you will you need to be on Rusinga Island because that is where you find Kolunga Beach. And to get to Rusinga, you have three options. First, you can hire a chopper, easy. Second, you make your way to Luanda Kotieno, which is 90 kilometers from Kisumu. It is where the road ends and Lake Victoria begins.  Here you take a ferry across the lake. If you miss the ferry, you can catch an overloaded, leaking boat that you might have to share with some livestock. Whatever water vessel you use, it will come to a grinding halt at Mbita then you connect via boda boda to Rusinga.

Third option is to go all the way around through Kisumu-Ahero-Katito-Kendu-Bay-Homa Bay then on to Mbita.  A long and hectic journey full of many perils, the least of which being enduring the Nyanza heat that makes you sweat everywhere such that your arse feels watery, almost as if you have just released what sick people often mistake for a fart. Continue Reading.

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